Sir Thomas Tyldesley's Regiment of Foote

Introduction.

For the purposes of this exercise this section is designed to apply to Officers, Pikemen, Musketeers, Drummers, members of the Artillery crews, First Aiders and Camp followers. (i.e. All those who take the field in male, military or attendant roles.)

As general background, please remember that Tyldesleys regiment was raised from the second poorest county in England. One officer in Tyldesleys, who was minor gentry, was paid 60% of the average southern soldiers wages. The regiment (and the soldiers within it) should represent this status. Therefore, soldiers in Tyldesleys regiment should steer well clear of shows of wealth such as silk, lace, enormous falling bands and other fineries, please keep these for the evening and away from the battlefield and living history sites.

Colours

Naturally coloured fabrics such as grey wools and unbleached linens are preferable. If dyeing, natural and period available dyes should he used where possible.

Colours should be limited to shades readily and easily obtainable within the period to individuals of limited means. Particularly difficult to dye, and therefore expensive colours were Black and Scarlet, so these should be avoided. When new, some period colours would appear bright even to the modem eye. However period dyes couldnt penetrate fibres well so very quickly these shades would become muted and fade to colours such as Peach and Yellows. Therefore, as we are portraying a regiment on campaign, bright colours should be avoided. Suitable colours include Yellows Russets,( which covers a range of Greys and Browns), Greens, woad and indigo Blues, madder Reds and natural.

Buttons

Flat buttons with holes all the way through sewn directly to the clothing were virtually unheard of in our period. Most metal buttons had shanks and were cast. Cloth buttons are well documented, and round wooden bead-types are acceptable. There is only one (dubious and tentative reference to tapes being used to close outer clothing, and so buttons of the above types are to be preferred.

New members

It is hoped that new members will acquire the majority of the mentioned items within a couple of seasons. Regimental kit is intended for brand new members for their first couple of events, after which purchases should be prioritised in order to free up regimental kit for others.

Therefore, basic purchases would include hat, shirt, breeches, hose, whitecoat and shoes. Other items can be added over the next season, for example, purchasing your own musket (if applicable), doublets, cloaks and swords.

Timescale

It is hoped that members will seek to replace items of kit and equipment falling outside the specifications laid down in this booklet with suitable items as soon as possible; and at least when current items break or wear out.

Making Purchases

The Regiment will issue an Approved Supplier List. The suppliers in it should be your first point of contact when selecting items to buy; however, there can be no guarantee that purchases made from them will automatically fall within the recommendations in this guide. Many members of the Regiment are very knowledgeable in specific areas and will be willing to help and advise other members. In the first instance, members should seek this advice from their divisional Officers, who can refer them on, if appropriate. All potential purchases should be cross checked with these specifications before items are bought.

Don't waste your money!

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(Part B will deal with RIE / Living History requirements)

1. Dress.

Linen, leather (vegetable dyed) and wool would dominate. All fabrics should be of natural fibres, but fine worsted wool fabrics and fine linens were costly. Cotton was uncommon and woven in conjunction with linen, so members currently wearing calico or cotton items should seek to replace them with linen when the current items wear out or are replaced. Man made fibres should not be worn as they melt when burnt, increasing the severity of the injury.

For the social class we are portraying the clothes that they stood up in were likely to be most peoples major possessions they denoted their status and would have been well looked after, altered to fit and frequently patched and mended.

To be really impressive, try to buy items with hand finished seams and button holes (using linen thread.)

Headgear.

All participants should wear suitable headgear at all times unless engaged in heavy menial labour, Various styles are available, however, the preferred styles are the Monmouth cap or the Blue Bonnet whilst we are Tyldesley mode. (Which will be the majority of the time.) Blue Bonnets, however, are not appropriate whilst attending events as part of the Shrewsbury Foot. Hats should not be decorated with feathers, plumes or brooches. If you are wearing a felt hat, a simple hat band is appropriate.

Shirts.

These items should he made of linen without a yolk. They should be constructed from square or rectangular panels and reach to mid thigh. Outrageously baggy sleeves are to be avoided. The neck has a simple T shaped opening. The shirt may be finished at the neck and cuffs with a narrow fold of cloth, or attached collars and cuffs. The Falling Band (collar) is to be 2 to 3 inches wide, and either stand up or floppy. Cuffs are to be tied or buttoned. Buttons should be of the round bead variety, and made from wood or fabric. Lace is an officers only luxury.

Breeches.

To be made without applied tape or ribbon patterns. Styles can be either closed or open round the knee. Open ones are at the peak of fashion, but closed ones are acceptable. It is hoped that breeches will be fastened at the knee by means of sashes, or preferably buttons. The sashes should tie around the knee on the outside of the breeches, or the breeches should be closed with linen tape between two eye holes on either side of the knee band. The threaded tape through the tube around the knee type are not accurate, but can easily be modified into one of the above styles. The breeches are to reach to just below the knee. The material can be gathered or pleated into the waist band.

Doublets.

Optional - These are not to be confused with the soldiers coat. These items were most likely civilian garments worn by soldiers beneath their issued outer garments. By the late 1630s the lower edge of the doublet had four tabs, two each, front and back, and the back was higher than the front. By the 1640s the doublet had lost the separate tabs and was longer, with a tailored waist. Colours are to be limited to sober shades, preferably browns and greys. These items were originally made as a suit with breeches to match, but some chopping and changing was likely to go on, so mismatched suits are acceptable. All surviving civilian doublets are made from linen. At a pinch, wool ones are OK, but an all linen construction is to be preferred.

Construction is from 2 back pieces, 2 front pieces, with curving seams from the armholes down to the waistline. Tabs are optional in accordance with the above paragraph. Sleeves are made from 2 pieces and are bent to follow the curve of the arm. They are to have a stand up collar 1.5 to 2 inches high. Wood, metal or cloth buttons should be 1-1.5 inches apart. False bows and points made from linen tape are to be preferred on earlier styles. Later styles should refrain from bows, as the originals would have fastened to the breeches via hooks and eyes.

Whitecoats.

These were issued garments. Therefore they would be of very similar construction to each other. Undyed wool of a creamy colour is to be used. Linings can be wool or linen. The regiment holds a standard pattern, which details construction from 4 pieces, with 2 pieces per sleeve. Cutting curved seems is not as economical with the fabric as using straight seems, so straight sleeves were most likely on the originals. Collars should be stand up, and 1.5 - 2 inches high. There should be 9 or 11 wood, metal or cloth buttons. No adornments to whitecoats should be worn, except forlorn hopes and corporals armbands.

Hose.

The board has taken the view that thin cotton hose and white fishermans socks should not be worn. The hose should be of wool or linen cloth construction, cut on the bias with separate soles and long side darts; or knitted from wool to the Gunnister pattern. 1 or 2 pairs maybe worn, with no mixing of colours.

Cloaks / Cassaques.

Optional - for bad weather. These items were not issued, and would therefore have been civilian garments. Cassaques were uncommon, cloaks being more usual. They were sometimes carried in cloak bags in the same manner as a blanket roll. Members wishing to wear Cassaques should remember that they should convert from coat to cloak by means of refastening buttons placed on underarm and side seams. The cuffs should turn back, and be held in place by 2 or 4 buttons. Pockets in these garments were not seen until the late 1650s. To be made from wool lined with wool or linen. Buttons are to be the wooden bead variety, or cloth; and be placed every 1-2 inches apart. Use of pewter buttons will render the wearer unable to stand, due to the extra weight!

Footwear.

Bucket top boots are inauthentic for the common soldier. They are therefore to be an officers only item. Startups, closed shoes or hatchets are preferred. An alternative and cheap style at large events for new members would be Desert Boots. (Further requirements are detailed in section B).

Buff Coats.

The type commonly worn within the regiment are indefensible from an authenticity viewpoint. They are visibly too thin and worn by the wrong type of soldier, Buff Coats were never issued to common soldiers. They were, and therefore now should be Officers only items for the pike and shotte divisions. Members of the artillery crews (being well paid civilians) may have been able to afford them. All visible Buff Coats should be of accurate thickness and style. It is, however, unfortunate that wearing armour directly over a whitecoat in pike pushes can lead to the whitecoat tearing or being rubbed through very quickly. The current Buff Coat is the only practical way of minimising the damage, therefore, if they feel it necessary to protect their whitecoats, Pikemen should cut their current Buff Coats down so that they sit unobtrusively beneath the back and breast. i.e. remove the tabs from waist level down, and trim off any epaulettes.

Musketeers and members of the Artillery Crews should wear the current buff coats under their closed outer clothing for protection if they so wish. However, under no circumstances should the huff coat be visible.

Gloves.

Sober colours only - they should not be obviously welding gloves

Sources:
The cut of mens clothes - N. Waugh Faber 1964

Common Soldiers clothing of the civil wars - S. Peachey & A. Turton 1995

Socks & Stockings - Jeremy Farrell

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2. Equipment.

The regiment periodically purchases items of kit to sell to members, or to replace existing equipment. As a result, various items of Regimental equipment will become available for members to purchase. Members wishing to avail themselves of this service should speak to their divisional Officers.

Helmets.

All Pikemen must wear a helmet of appropriate type whilst taking part in combat / drill displays. No fibreglass or aluminium items are allowed. No Lobster Tail helmets. Helmets are optional for Musketeers.

Armour.

This is defined as a Back and Breast set. They are obligatory for Pikemen whilst taking part in combat / drill displays. Tassets are optional. but are preferred for early period events. Armour and Tassets should be in good repair. The use of screws or bolts to hold pieces together is not acceptable due to safety concerns. The regimental Quartermaster system may be able to assist with repairs. Severe dents are to he beaten out. Armour is to be blacked, fire blued or russeted. Shiny finishes are to he avoided.

Gorgettes.

These were worn by Officers only, as a badge of rank.

Musket, Bandoliers, Powder Flasks and Slow Match hanks.

All Musketeers should have a full set of the above when taking part in displays. Please refer to the Musket Officers, in conjunction with the Approval Suppliers List for a full specification.

Cartridge Bags.

The Musket Officers are currently looking at safe and authentic designs; as the handbag variety was associated with beggars and vagrants - and was not a military item.

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The principal underlying these is No obvious anachronisms. There can never be a definitive list, but when in period. the start should include:

No visible tattoos.

No visible piercings (Except plain hoop ear rings)

No cigarette / cigar smoking in view of the public, clay pipes being the acceptable alternative.

No consumption of modern food or drink in view of the public.

Women seeking to dress as men should do so convincingly, and not wear jewellery or make up.

No wrist watches to he worn.

No mixed dressing in public areas (i.e. no mixing of Seventeenth Century and Twenty First Century clothing).

No weapons in public areas - except for transportation to / from the battlefield or display area.

For safety reasons, it is obviously vital that everyone on a Major battlefield should be able to see to the best of their ability, but please, please, please try to wear contact lenses! Brass or iron framed granny spectacles maybe worn if they are an absolute necessity. A better alternative (though pricey) option is the purchase of authentic frames to hold modem lenses.

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These should be seen as superseding the above general requirements when attending smaller RIE / Living History events.

1. Dress.

Headgear.

As above.

Shirts.

As above.

Breeches.

As above.

Doublets.

As above.

Whitecoats.

As above.

Hose.

As above.

Footwear.

Latchet shoes, closed shoes or startups only. Fitted clogs should not be worn, however, straight-lasted ones are OK. Those portraying officers should wear bucket top boots or shoes.

Buff Coats.

Buff Coats should not be worn at all except by those portraying officers (who should not necessarily be KA commission holders) or artillery crew members. This exclusion of Buff Coats extends to the cut down or hidden varieties described above, The Officers / any outer artillery Buff Coats should be of accurate thickness and style.

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Swords.

To be worn at the discretion of the Officer in Charge.

From 2002, swords worn should be commensurate with rank portrayed. For soldiers of the Pike and Shotte divisions, this means a good stout tuck (yes, thats Tuck).

To minimise safety concerns the blade should be made from EN45 steel, correctly tempered, maximum length 27. If there is any intention of using the sword in combat displays, the edges are to he blunt and the point is to have the minimum radius of a l p coin. All swords to have scabbards.

Care should he taken that the edge of the blade does not become chipped, dented or otherwise damaged. Members should inspect their blades before each event to ensure there is no such damage. Any damage can be made good (in most cases) by using a file to take off the jagged parts on the blade. Blades must not be overly rusty. A tip here is to lightly sand a new blade with fine emery paper and apply 3 in 1 oil, or similar. The tiny grooves left by the emery traps the oil much better than a totally smooth blade.

Hilts should be of simple design. Handles should be bound with wire or cord, to maximise grip.

Baldricks should be as simple as possible. Either the over the shoulder or round the waist types are appropriate.

Snapsacks.

It is hoped that every soldier will possess a snapsack of the tube type or the duffel bag type currently widely in use. Snapsacks should be made of leather or canvas, in a sober colour, preferably brown. Modem brass rivets should be replaced by stitching.

Canvas / Blanket Roll.

To represent a company on campaign, each soldier should carry a suitably sized canvas or blanket roll. The fabric is rolled into a sausage shape, tied securely with rope or leather thonging. and slung across the back.

Water Bottles.

Various types are available, made from wood, leather or pottery. Leather Costrells are good, as they are fairly robust.

Musket Rests.

All musketeers should have, and use, a musket rest when taking part in displays portraying the early civil war period.

Metal Tankards / Drinking Vessels.

Recent research shows conclusively that these items were beyond the pocket of the common soldier. In any event, the vast majority of Pewter items were used to decant from; into smaller pottery, wood, or horn cups. They were predominantly not drunk from directly. Therefore, pottery (with dark brown or salt glaze), wood, or horn cups are to be preferred.

Bowls and Trenchers.

No-one should be using a Teak bowl. Cheap treen or pottery (again, with dark brown or salt glaze) is widely available, so the use of a wood from thousands of miles away should be discontinued.

Eating Utensils

A spoon - wood, horn or pewter and a knife. Forks were very uncommon and only two pronged.

Fabrics / Hessian.

As an Eighteenth century innovation, there should he no hessian items at RIE / LH events. A suitable alternative being coarse weave linen.

Gloves.

As above.

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As noted in part A, there cannot be a definitive list, but the standard should be higher than the general one above, for example:

As an absolute minimum, brass or iron framed granny spectacles may be worn; but it is hoped that members will strive to wear contact lenses or authentically framed spectacles instead.

No pike pushing at events with an attendant living history encampment.